Wow, it’s already almost the end of August, and I am finally finding the time to share one of the more unique experiences I had in Oaxaca, Mexico way back near the beginning of the year on January 24th.

This experience wasn’t like the normal ones some may have in Mexico that involve taking a party boat on the water or indulging in all the delicious food. Instead, I took the time to get away from all the tacos and tequila and experienced something that has been happening for many centuries and continues today. I got to spend the day with one of the local families still practicing the sacred art of creating Oaxaca textiles to learn about the rich culture and history of the state, and to experience the beauty of its textiles firsthand.

It is an unforgettable experience that I know I will cherish for years to come. The goal of this post is to tell you about the state of Oaxaca and walk you through my experience so that when you find yourself in Oaxaca looking to know more about what goes on behind the scenes of some of the amazing art you find, you too can get your hands busy and take this epic Oaxaca textile tour yourself.

What exactly is a textile?

Alright, before I continue, I’m sure some of you are asking what exactly is a textile. Let me tell you.

A textile is any material made of interlacing fibers. It can be woven, knitted, felted, or even printed. Textiles are everywhere in our lives. They are in our clothes, our furniture, our carpets, and our bedding.

The word textile comes from the Latin term textiles, which means “woven”. Textiles were first made from natural fibers such as wool, flax, and cotton. However, in the 20th century, man-made fibers such as nylon, polyester, and acrylic were developed.

Now that we have that out of the way, let’s continue!

The Oaxaca Textile Tradition

Oaxaca is a state in southern Mexico with a rich cultural heritage. It is home to a diverse population of indigenous peoples, who have preserved their traditional customs and way of life. Oaxaca is also known for its beautiful textiles, which are made using centuries-old techniques.

The textile tradition in Oaxaca is one of the most vibrant in Mexico. The state is home to over 16 different indigenous groups, each with its own unique style of weaving. The most common types of Oaxacan textiles are huipiles (blouses), rebozos (shawls), and sarapes (blankets). Huipiles are often decorated with intricate embroidery or weaving, while rebozos and sarapes are typically decorated with geometric patterns.

The colors used in Oaxaca textiles are also very distinctive. The most common colors are red, yellow, blue, and green (I’ll share more about the process of dyeing later on). These colors are often used to represent the natural world, such as the sun, the moon, and the stars.

The weaving techniques used in Oaxaca are also very traditional. Most Oaxacan textiles are woven on backstrap looms, which are small, portable looms that can be used by weavers to create intricate patterns. Foot-powered looms are also used in some areas of Oaxaca, but they are less common. The foot-powered loom is what I used during my cultural experience (much easier for my back).

The textile tradition in Oaxaca is a living tradition. Today, there are many Oaxacan weavers who continue to produce beautiful textiles using traditional techniques. These weavers are not only preserving their cultural heritage, but they are also creating works of art that are appreciated by people all over the world.

Oaxacan textiles are a beautiful and unique part of Mexican culture. They are a testament to the creativity and skill of the Oaxacan people. If you are ever in Oaxaca, be sure to visit one of the many textile markets or workshops to see the amazing work of these artisans.

To learn more, go here!

Teotitlán del Valle

Teotitlán del Valle is a town in the central highlands of Oaxaca, Mexico. It is known for its traditional Zapotec weaving, which has been practiced for centuries. The town is located about 18 miles southeast of Oaxaca City and is easily accessible by car or bus.

The weaving tradition in Teotitlán del Valle is said to have originated in pre-Hispanic times. The Zapotec people have a long history of weaving, and their textiles were highly prized by the Aztecs. Today, the town is home to hundreds of weavers who produce a wide variety of textiles, including rugs, tapestries, and clothing.

The weaving process in Teotitlán del Valle is still largely traditional. The yarn is made from wool, which is dyed with natural colors such as indigo, cochineal, and pomegranate husk.

La’xha Textil

Located on the right side of the main road as you enter the town is La’xha Textil. The location with which my tour took place. Find them on Instagram: @laxha_textil

A 5th-generation family preserving the old methods of dyeing sheep wool for creating beautiful rugs and other gorgeous textile crafts since their great-grandfather began exporting in 1945.

Often, children learn to weave from their parents at a young age. And even when weavers are not working in their own homes, they often work together in small workshops. This allows them to share knowledge and skills, and it also helps to support the local economy.

The first textiles used natural colors: whites, blacks, and grays. Though dyeing techniques have advanced and now textiles can be made using the entire rainbow of colors.

Josefina and Javier

Our two hosts of the family who led our tour were Josefina and Javier. Both are master weavers with Josefina weaving for well over thirty years, taught by her grandmother, and Javier weaving for twenty years, taught by his grandfather. Josefina and Javier are passionate about preserving the traditional Zapotec weaving techniques. They believe that weaving is an important part of Zapotec culture, and they want to pass on their skills to future generations. They are committed to using natural dyes in their work, in order to be more environmentally friendly.

How Did I Even Get Here?

I wouldn’t have normally gone and booked this tour on my own, to be honest. Not because I didn’t love it, I definitely did, but because I didn’t know much about what I was getting into or what a textile even was. Thankfully it was recommended to me, like I am recommending it to you! How lovely!

Last November, I went to Phuket, Thailand, and I met a gentleman, Ian Ord, at the conference who runs, Where Sidewalks End Travels. He knew that I had a trip to Oaxaca coming up and we chatted a little before I left Thailand. I’m glad I did!

I reached out to Ian and told him “I know nothing of Oaxaca, so would appreciate any and all recommendations!” Ian responded and let me know that he’s been based in Oaxaca for six years and that he would be happy to help.

I later messaged him in early January after confirming that going to Oaxaca was happening. I asked him for neighborhoods to stay in and recommendations on what not to miss. Ian responded soon after and offered to hook me up on a tour for my blog (this blog right here) as well as a list of neighborhoods to stay in.

I thanked him for the list of neighborhoods and asked what tours were available that he would recommend. Also, I shared how excited I was to experience Oaxaca!

For the time I was in Oaxaca, there were two possible tours:

• A mezcal experience, spending the day with farmers and seeing their multigenerational practices, learning all about agaves.
• A textile place, doing the same old-school weaving, and seeing how hands-on and grassroots it is.

Aw, shucks! As much as I love me some mezcal, I was taking a month of sobriety that January, so I told him that it would be best to experience the textile weaving tour as I love experiences with locals.

We sorted out dates and took care of some logistics, and soon after, I was booked for one of my all-time favorite memories in Mexico!

My Unforgettable Oaxaca Textile Experience

The six-hour tour started at Mondo Cafe in Oaxaca City where our tour operator, Victor, would pick us up and take us to La’Xha Textil, a renowned textile workshop in Teotitlán del Valle. The drive was lovely and gave me a chance to connect with the other folks on the tour.

We were warmly greeted by Josefina in a local dialect of Spanish called Zapotec. Victor was there to translate for us who didn’t speak Zapotec, or Spanish for that matter. He was also quite funny which I appreciated.

Turning Wool Into Yarn

The tour began at La’xha Textil’s workshop. Josefina guided me through the meticulous process of preparing the wool for dyeing. With colorful bundles of threads adorning the walls, I quickly became captivated by the vibrant display of hues.

She had a basket full of sheared sheep’s wool and a couple of tools in her hand. The tool she had is called a Cardador de Lana or wool carder in English.

A wool carder is a tool used to prepare wool for spinning, weaving, or felting. It consists of two paddles with rows of fine teeth or pins on them. When the boards are rubbed together, the teeth grip the wool fibers and pull them out of their clumps, aligning them in parallel rows. This makes the wool easier to spin into yarn.

Using a wool carder, an essential tool in the trade, Josefina demonstrated the technique of aligning the wool fibers in parallel rows. It was a skillful process that required precision and patience. Inspired by her expertise, I tried my hand at wool carding, quickly discovering the artistry and delicate touch required to achieve the desired result (it was really tough! I was awful at it).

Dyeing the Yarn

The next step in the process after making yarn is dyeing it (if colors other than sheep “white” are what you’re after).

She took us into a room with a bunch of prickly cacti. I later learned that this was how they harvested cochineal. Cochineal is a bug known to most of us at home as a potato or pill bug. Maybe even a roly-poly bug. It takes about three months to grow the insects to get them ready for harvest. The cochineal is dried out in the sun after being harvested and used for red coloring.

We moved back into the dyeing area and she got to work. As Josefina ground the dried cochineal bugs into a fine red powder, I marveled at the immense effort and traditional methods employed in every step. She collected the ground-up cochineal with a little broom.

Changing Colors with Natural Ingredients

After she finished and collected the grounds, she eagerly took a spoonful and excitedly put it into a glass of water. To her delight, the water quickly transformed into a beautiful, vibrant shade of red.

With a gleeful smile, she then demonstrated how adding lime juice could magically turn the red dye into a cheerful orange color. The room was filled with wonder and amazement!

Not stopping there, she enthusiastically showed us that by adding baking soda or limestone, the red dye transformed into a stunning fuchsia hue. Wow, what a sight to behold!

As we continued our exploration, our eyes widened with joy as we discovered a myriad of natural materials that could be used for creating various dye colors. Indigo for capturing the essence of blues, and pomegranate husks for achieving delightful yellows and rich browns. The possibilities were endless!

With such an abundance of materials and colors at our disposal, it became evident that with a little creativity and experimentation, we could create a kaleidoscope of colors, allowing our imaginations to run wild. It was an exhilarating and truly awe-inspiring experience!

Immerse yourself in this colorful adventure and let your creativity soar. The world of natural dyes awaits, ready to paint your world in vibrant shades and fill it with endless joy and optimism. Enjoy the magic of creating your very own rainbow of colors!

After learning about the dyeing process, Javier brought out some tepache for us to enjoy with some oranges that we put chili powder onto. So, yummy!

Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink that originated in Mexico. It is made with pineapple peels, piloncillo (unrefined cane sugar), cinnamon, and water.

We then got to pick out two colors from the numerous bundles of yarn in the workshop.

With the dyed wool in hand, Josefina transformed it into yarn using a spinning technique passed down through generations. I watched in awe as she skillfully twirled the spindle, effortlessly creating the foundation for future textile masterpieces. Inspired by her artistry, I attempted to spin my own yarn, quickly realizing the skill and practice required to achieve Josefina’s level of expertise. Thankfully she was able to prepare my first two spindles with ease.

The highlight of the tour came when Javier prepared the 100-year-old foot-powered loom, a traditional tool central to Oaxacan textile weaving. With a patient and meticulous approach, he demonstrated the intricate movements required to weave the yarn into magnificent patterns. I had the opportunity to try my hand at operating the loom, marveling at the rhythmic process and the harmony between craftsmanship and creativity.

In a matter of minutes, guided by Javier’s expert guidance and encouragement, I proudly completed my first ever textile—a coaster. While it may have been a humble creation, the accomplishment filled me with a profound sense of pride and appreciation for the intricate art form that is Oaxacan weaving.

Voila, my first ever loomed textile coaster! I am so awesome! However, I don’t think I should change careers just yet.

We finished up by touring the shop to see all the different looms. There are some huge ones where multiple people work on a dozen different spools being tossed back and forth to make some giant rugs in bold colors. It is all very impressive and oh-so precise.

After exploring the workshop and witnessing the vast array of looms, each producing awe-inspiring rugs and fabrics, we concluded the tour with a locally prepared lunch shared with Josefina, Javier, and their warm and welcoming family. It was a moment of connection and reflection, where I truly felt the rich cultural heritage of Oaxaca come alive.

Lasting Impact

My Oaxacan textile experience was more than just a tour; it was a window into a world where centuries of tradition, skill, and creativity intersect. It opened my eyes to the beauty of this ancient craft and the profound impact it has on preserving the cultural heritage of Oaxacan communities.

If you find yourself in Oaxaca, I wholeheartedly recommend embarking on a textile adventure of your own. Immerse yourself in the colors, textures, and stories woven into every thread. Explore the rich cultural tapestry of this incredible region and connect with the artisans who carry on the traditions that have endured for generations. It will be an experience that leaves an indelible mark on your soul, just as it did on mine.

If you would like to have a similar experience as I did, then I highly suggest you take some time and book this through WSE Travels! You will not be disappointed!